
Understanding water feature maintenance starts with a bit of natural history.
Like natural ponds, man-made ponds are not static environments. “Nature
doesn’t like a pond,” laughs Reanna Pelszynski, general manager
of Aqua Controls, in Peru, Illinois. “Over the years, nature will
try to fill it in.” That filling-in process begins with things like
algae and weed growth and the buildup of organic matter on the pond floor.
Water quality deteriorates as ammonia and nitrites build up from fish waste.
Eventually, this process ends with, well, a pond that isn’t there
anymore.
Because they may lack some of nature’s built-in regulating systems, man-made ponds risk deterioration at a
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| much quicker rate than naturally occurring ones. But there are many steps we can take to slow down or even stop these natural processes in order to preserve a waterscape in its original aesthetically pleasing condition. Patrick Simmsgieger of Diversified Waterscapes, a waterscape maintenance firm in Laguna Nigel, California, breaks down maintenance into five major categories: filtration, aeration, biological controls, chemical controls, and manual labor. Though his firm primarily manages large ponds and man-made lakes, these same categories hold true for small to medium ponds as well. According to Simmsgieger, the best maintenance interventions work with Mother Nature, not against her. “Our philosophy is ‘Go with the flow’,” says Simmsgieger. “We try to deal with what Mother Nature gives out and work with it.” To do this he uses a toolbox that includes not only man-made systems and products, but also natural interventions like plants, fish, friendly bacteria, and other biological controls. Keep It Filtered and Keep It Moving Good filtration is critical. “A good system includes both mechanical and biological filtration,” explains James Blake, new business development manager for Hozelock Cyprio, in Pennsauken, New Jersey. Mechanical filtration strains out particles of various dimensions from large debris to very small. This gives the pond a clean look and helps to keep the debris from clogging other pond components. But a pond that’s clear of debris can still have very poor water quality, due to the build-up of ammonia and nitrites that result from fish waste. That’s where biological filtration comes in. A biological filter is basically a medium for colonization by two kinds of “friendly” bacteria. As water moves through the filter, one kind of bacteria turns ammonia into nitrite, a second digests the nitrite. This produces nitrates which are far less toxic than the original ammonia and can be easily managed with periodic partial water changes.
“It’s an entirely natural process,” says Blake. “You can either wait for bacteria to colonize the filter naturally, or you can speed things up by introducing bacteria.” This is typically done during spring start-up or when preparing a new pond. It takes a few weeks for colonization to take place. Once they are fully operating, the mechanical and biological filters should be cleaned when flow rate slows. Do not clean biological filters too often, as this could kill too many bacteria. To clean filters, Blake recommends gently agitating them in water from the pond to dislodge debris. (Don’t forget to feed the surrounding landscape with the nutrient-rich water you remove from the pond.) To maintain the crystal clear, algae-free water that most customers want, the filtration system gets help from ultra-violet clarifiers or UVCs. A UVC is basically a low-wattage UV bulb. “Single celled algae can go straight through even a fine grade filter,” says Blake. “When you pass algae through a UV light, their cells become sticky and they clump together. The clumps of algae then get trapped by the filter.” To keep the UV light working properly, check the quartz sleeve and wipe it off periodically. Replace the bulb once a year. Adequate aeration is another critical factor in maintaining pond health. Aeration adds dissolved oxygen to the water and improves the quality of the pond in many other ways, especially in larger ponds. Aeration in small backyard ponds can be provided with small waterfalls or fountains. Fountains should be checked regularly and cleaned as soon as you notice diminished spray. In northern climates, fountains should be removed in the fall. This is a good time to perform a thorough cleaning of the unit. In order for the UV light, filters, fountains, and falls to do their jobs properly, an adequate amount of water must pass through them. Choosing the right pumps to keep the water moving is critical. “Make sure to size the pump according to the pond,” says Yerton. “A lot of people install pumps that just don’t move enough water.” Pumps also need to be cleaned occasionally. Inspect and clean in spring and fall, and whenever you notice diminished water flow. Working with Nature’s Toolbox “Almost all of our products are based on natural processes, tapping nature’s own capabilities for keeping our environment, including water, clean,” says Mike Krupka, vice president and technical director for Ecological Laboratories, in Freeport, New York. “There’s no better way to balance a pond ecologically than with biological products that use the same mechanisms, primarily the biogeochemical cycles, to purify the water that nature employs.” Plants are also components of a waterscape contractor’s natural toolbox. Plants help oxygenate the water, and some plant species are especially good at this. All plants help contribute to algae control by consuming the nutrients that algae need to grow. Floating plants like water lilies and hyacinths help by shading water from sunlight that can contribute to algae blooms. Various fish species can help improve the pond, too. “I use mosquito fish to help control mosquito larvae and grass carp to help control weeds and algae,” says Simmsgieger. In addition to biological controls, waterscapes sometimes call for other additives to help deal with specific problems. A common application for the prevention of algae growth is UV dye. Algae need sunlight to flourish. UV dye, also known as blue dye or pond screen, is a food-grade coloring that is poured into the water. It helps filter out some of the sunlight, thus discouraging algae growth. Herbicides and algaecides also have a place in waterscape management. Contractors must be licensed to apply herbicides. “Most of our maintenance calls are for unwanted weed and algae control,” says Roy Carlson, owner of Pond and Lake Solutions, in Elkhorn, Wisconsin. “In our area, lake applications typically deal with non-native species like Eurasian watermilfoil and curly leaf pondweed. These are invasive exotics that crowd out the more desirable, native species. Pond applications are more likely to deal with the control of filamentous algae.” Carlson stresses that herbicides and algaecides should not be used alone, but in conjunction with other management practices such as reduced fertilization in the watershed, aeration, all-natural microbes, dyes, enzymes, proper pond construction, bank stabilization, etc. “In addition to actual herbicide/algaecide applications, we work with the owner to reduce nutrients within the pond and watershed.” Good Old Elbow-Grease Partial water changes are another regular part of the pond maintenance schedule. Never change more than 25% of the water in the pond at one time. Sudden changes can stress the pond and harm fish. Instead, perform several small changes (10% or so) over a 4-6 week period of time. Both Carlson and Simmsgieger emphasize educating clients about the importance of regular maintenance visits. “A typical scheduled maintenance program would be 10 visits, every other week throughout the summer months,” says Carlson. “Many pond owners simply call when service is needed, but regular visits allow us to stay on top of things. Weed and algae growth can start and spread very quickly, often catching people off-guard.” Simmsgieger agrees, “Problems can build up slowly but then take off and, boom, you can lose your lake.” Design with Maintenance In Mind Chic Kelty, CEO of Savio Engineering, in Santa Fe, New Mexico agrees. “We try to teach contractors techniques that will help them produce ponds their customers can enjoy for years to come without overwhelming maintenance issues. This will result in more business for the contractor.” “Even the most well-designed ponds will require some maintenance. That side of a contractor’s business will always be there,” says Kelty. “But if you build something that involves tremendous maintenance issues, you’ll find yourself dealing with ‘customer fatigue.’ Your clients will start evaluating the expenditure of time and money. At some point they’re going to ask, ‘Is it worth it?’” So what are the basics of maintenance-friendly design? “A proactive approach to waste management leads to less maintenance,” says Kelty. He recommends skimmers to keep the pond clear of debris so it can’t contribute to problems. Carlson cites the importance of adequate depth. “The single most important factor influencing frequency of pond management is depth,” he says. “A deeper pond will prohibit growth simply by sunlight reduction alone. Shallow ponds tend to have a fair amount of organic bottom sediment, leading to large amounts of growth. It helps to go steep and deep to reach maximum depth quickly.” “Nutrients are the second most important factor,” he says. “These come in the form of nitrogen and phosphorus from run-off, existing sub-soils, degrading banks, poor fertilization practices, and large waterfowl populations.” The amount and species of fish is also extremely important. “The number of fish is numero uno,” says Springer. “Don’t overstock your pond with fish or you’re constantly going to have a maintenance problem.” Some species produce more waste and, therefore, require more maintenance than others. If you have carp, you’re going to have more waste. “Plants are number two. Every well-designed pond has at least a few water plants to help balance out the ecosystem.” Waterscape maintenance practices change with the seasons and climate and vary tremendously, depending on the type of pond. Manufacturers provide seasonal care information and excellent classes in maintenance. “Don’t try to maintain something you know nothing about,” says Springer. “You don’t have to be an expert in everything, but you should have a general knowledge of aquatic plants and how to maintain them, as well as pond fish. There are all kinds of classes available to get educated, with little or no expense.” “Each system is different,” says Simmsgieger.
“To be successful, you really have to develop a sense for what it
takes to keep a pond healthy. Some people seem naturally gifted at it.
It’s like having a green thumb. Excellent water management really
becomes an art.” |
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